Fantasising romance overseas

Fantasising romance overseas

Transgender Indonesian migrants are looking for romance and security in Europe, but nothing is easy 
Ari’s audacity

Ari’s audacity

How can you be a straight cop when people just give you money?
Longing for Suharto

Longing for Suharto

A visit to the former president’s memorial shows that some Indonesians prefer an uncomplicated vision of the past
Review: Taking a musical journey in Sumatra

Review: Taking a musical journey in Sumatra

Margaret Kartomi’s life-long devotion to bringing Sumatran music to the world is revealed in her major contribution to analysing and preserving this musical heritage
Strange bedfellows

Strange bedfellows

An unlikely alliance between former rebels and a former New Order tormentor will test the limits of Partai Aceh loyalty
Photo essay: Positive is negative

Photo essay: Positive is negative

HIV/AIDS is posing an ever greater threat to the health and welfare of people in the highlands of Papua
Reckinger Lemaire

Lives endangered

Three stories of people with HIV/AIDS in the central highlands of Papua show that both the government and community have a long way to go in confronting this major epidemic
More than a fatal attraction

More than a fatal attraction

Outsiders see arak consumption as a highly dangerous activity, but arak plays an important role in Balinese society
Poets against silence

Poets against silence

Two young Solo poets believe poetry should serve the people
Candidates from left to right: Tenri Olle Yasin Limpo: Older sister of Syahrul Yasin Limpo; Akbar Danu Indarta: Nephew of Syahrul Yasin Limpo, Son of Tenri Yasin Limpo; Irman Yasin Limpo: Younger brother of Syahrul Yasin Limpo; Andi Ishak: Brother-in-law of Syahrul Yasin Limpo, Husband of Tenri Olle Limpo; Haris Yasin Limpo: Younger brother of Syahrul Yasin Limpo; Susilo MT Harahap: Brother-in-law of Syahrul Yasin Limpo, Brother of Ayunsri 'Uli' Harahap, Syahrul Yasin Limpo's wife / Michael Buehler

Married with children

The second round of direct elections for governors and district heads shows that democratisation is allowing powerful families to entrench themselves in local politics
Freeing shovelnosed ray, Bobby Anderson

No-take zones

In West Papua province’s Raja Ampat islands, a local fisheries conservation initiative is setting a global standard
A mysterious illness

A mysterious illness

Panas dalam can kill, but it can also be cured by a phone call
Lawang Sewu, an imperial temple in modern Indonesia, Michael G. Vann

Haunted house, haunted history

Visitors to Semarang’s Lawang Sewu find competing narratives of history, memory and popular culture

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