Starting early New programs of compulsory religious education for Muslim children in West Sumatra have received little publicity outside that province. Is this a new phase in the Islamisation of Indonesia? Read more
Clash of interests Tension within Cabinet has once again become public. But while many see it as a religious clash, the more serious conflict, writes GERRY VAN KLINKEN, is over the protection of special business interests. Read more
Waiting for Ngaben Kuta Beach ceased some time ago to be what the brochures say it is. For Robert Goodfellow, the piles of plastic rubbish are signs of a deeper malaise. Read more
Battle for the pews GERRY VAN KLINKEN explores the dramatic conflict within the Batak Protestant Church (HKBP). Environmental protest, military-backed thugs, and guerilla tactics to attend Sunday worship - these are the ingredients of a bizarre story. Read more
Portrait of a female preacher NELLY VAN DOORN discovers a woman preacher revered for her faith and drive, who questions the image of a male-centred Islam. Read more
Itinerant scholars Hinduism and Islam were born so far away. How did Indonesians learn of them? KAREL STEENBRINK traces a long history of religious scholars travelling overseas. Read more
Islam in opposition? It's not that simple. Despite an impression that Islam has lately become a potent force of opposition, GREG BARTON thinks many Muslims have a stake in the status quo. Read more
How Muslims will say 'No' What are the prospects of Islamic opposition? How democratic will it be? GEORGE ADITJONDRO finds much to be hopeful about. Read more
Breaking out! DJOHAN EFFENDI explores the paradox of young progressives in Indonesia's most traditional Islamic organisation. Read more
Rationality and the clitorectomy A Spanish enquirer gets the catechism in an exclusive Jakarta suburb. MARGARET COFFEY was there too. Read more
A local hero To Jakarta, he is an enigma. To the Madurese, he holds out hope for a better society. GERRY VAN KLINKEN goes to the grass-roots. Read more
Godly men in green Abri officers are becoming more Islamic, but many do not want their Islam to become a political tool for the administration, according to MARCUS MIETZNER. Read more
Travels in West Timor SIMON ANDREWARTHA discovers a quiet invasion by outsiders, even in the remotest villages. Read more
No nightmares in Aceh Acehnese have no word for nightmare, but the trauma of the conflict years is nightly visited upon many survivors through their dreams. Read more
Towards a New Papua When they hear the sacred texts of the church, Papuans see a better future Read more
Laskar Jihad A spiritual home for the lost, this militant sect is used by dangerous elites for their own ends Read more